Have you ever had pig's head stew? Slow braised with brussel tops, mustard, pearl barley, and topped with pickled carrots and crunchy barley? Or a goat taco? How about shredded duck in creamy rice with chorizo? A lamb wrap with lovely greens? Or a really juicy, cheesy hamburger on a soft bun with a side of dill pickles? Grilled pork belly with cucumber in a pillowy soft man-tou? How about all of these in the same evening?
I just had all of the above, seven of the tastiest little meals I've ever eaten (including the best cheeseburger I've ever had ever), served in paper bowls, with napkins stuffed into my pocket, huddled under a too-small tent.
Tonight, I went to the final evening of The Long Table, a pop-up street food market in Dalston. It was amazing. Some of London's best restaurants, including St. John (a.k.a. the happiest place on earth), Moro, Yum Bun, and Lucky Chip, set up stalls in a tucked-away square near Dalston Junction. We lined up, sorry, "queued" up, at 5:30 for the opening at 6, and the line was already half a block long. It was a cold night, with a hint of rain, but the sound and smell of a bonfire, roasted pork, and spicy mulled cider kept us in line, blowing steamy air into our hands and stomping our feet to keep warm.
I was first in line for St. John's pig head stew, which was packed with flavour. The broth was rich and thick and bursting with a meaty, gamey flavour. It was delicious. By the time we finished the stew and lined up for other plates, all the queues were lengthy and the tables were crowded.
But it was worth the wait and worth the cold. The food was messy and hearty, and the company was warm and happy. All around were clusters of friends and families, licking their fingers, balancing steaming cups of cider with handfuls of forks, bouncing bundled up babies, or stretching their hands over smoky bonfires. Everyone was talking and eating good food. Even as we left, the queue of people waiting to get inside were chatting and generally in good spirits, and they were hours away from even getting to stand in line at one of the vendors! Brits are truly dedicated to their street food.
My favourite part of the evening:
[all fairy lights and power go out]
Crowd: Awwwww....
[all fairy lights and power turn on]
Crowd: Yaaaaay!
I came away from the evening with frozen toes, the smell of smoke in my hair, and sauce stains on my coat.
I'm so glad I'm here.
The Food
St. John's Pig Head Stew with barley, brussel tops, and mustard, topped with crunchy barley and pickled carrot
Takoyaki
Meatballs and eggplant parmiagana with polenta
Red and Green's pulled pork and goat taco
Moro's duck with rice and chorizo and slow-cooked lamb wrap with crunchy salad
Lucky Chip's cheeseburger
Yum Bun's pork belly man-tou with chili sauce
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